Roasting

While Barbara Kafka's Roasting (see above) may target adventuresome carnivores, Gunst (Leftovers; Condiments) appeals to those presently munching too much raw arugula. Suggesting that roasting is a neglected technique in this age of pasta and salad, she offers recipes for roasting almost anything, from the traditional Chanukkah Brisket or Roast Smoked Country Ham with Apple Cider Glaze to clams, mussels, goat cheese, a mango. In fact, the seafood and vegetable sections of the book are best, featuring the likes of Portuguese Roasted Clams with Chorizo and Spinach Souffle Roll Stuffed with Roasted Red Peppers. None of these recipes is too difficult, although some (e.g., Roasted Soft Shell Crabs with Lemon-Caper Sauce) require some skillet work before the roasting. With generally simple recipes for sauces, soups and stocks, Gunst offers readers plenty of incentive to clean their ovens. (Nov.)