The Indian Vegetarian: Flavors for the American Kitchen

``Cooking is not always [about] doing the right thing, but is [about] being able to create a new masterpiece when something goes wrong.... Think of [it] as an adventure.'' Combining Indian culinary tradition with others from around the world for an American audience, Batra assumes little about our familiarity with the subcontinent's habits. She's a persuasive proselytizer. Her recipe for lemonade is memorably minted; so is her version of the British cucumber sandwiches. A potato salad, which calls for both sweet and russet types (and a yam, too), is unusual. Salads, chutneys, beans, appetizers, cheeses, rice dishes, yogurts, breads and sweets are thoroughly covered. Check out the orange peel and almond cookies, also the avocado chutney. The chapter on sauces (tomato mustard sauce; pumpkin sauce) is extensive and rewarding. In addition to recipes, Batra offers well-worded introductions, brief informal memoirs and mail-order sources. (Sept.)