A Casa: Seasonal Italian Home Cooking

This guide to entertaining by Del Conte ( The Italian Pantry ) outlines, by season and occasion, a number of Italian menus, distinguished by the relaxed attitude and fresh and flavorful dishes of characteristically Italian cooking. While herself a native of the north (Milan), the author skillfully interweaves much of the best of Italy's regions into the book, ending up with a happy balance of interesting--and unusual--recipes, cooking techniques and personal recollections. Some of the outstanding recipes include caponata with chocolate; fish lasagne; tomato, cucumber and pepper salad (for which the onions are marinated in lemon juice and sugar); potato and almond cake; and Christmas ``crackers'' with ginger custard. Included as well are lighthearted suggestions for theme dinners (e.g., a basil-flavored dinner, a balsamic-vinegar-flavored dinner and a lemon-flavored dinner). Solid directions for from-scratch pasta preparation and polenta, rice and pasta cookery make much of this volume very handy. Unfortunately, while many of the ingredients may be available in Great Britain (where Del Conte now resides), American cooks will be frustrated to find that not all can be had here; the inclusion of truffle paste, for example, demands explanations, substitutions and the recommendation for a U.S. mail-order source. (Nov.)