RECIPE FOR A COUNTRY INN: Fine Food from the Inn at Twin Linden

Leahy serves up an ample taste of a dream fulfilled: to buy, renovate and operate a rural Pennsylvania inn with her husband. At the same time she offers 125 recipes that have converted hostelry visitors into her fans. Sidebars peppered throughout discuss such basics as catering to guests' dietary restrictions, securing publicity for the business and what it's like cooking for a crowd. The heart of the book, however, is its informal table. Time constraints mean that Leahy favors recipes that are not overly complicated and others that can be prepared in advance. Breakfasts (as in her earlier Morning Glories) are a particular strength with 16 egg dishes and 16 additional helpings of breakfast fare featuring fruits or berries, such as Baked French Toast with Peaches and Blueberries. Soups bring on Oyster and Pancetta Chowder and Smoked Tomato Soup, and salads include the savory Quail with Belgian Endive and Blueberry Vinaigrette. While limited in number, entrées entice with Sirloin Strip Steak with Stilton Crust and Lobster Fricasee with Corn and Chive Pancakes. Teatime is a daily affair at the inn, where Strawberry Mascarpone Meringues and Pecan Shortbread Bars may be piled on the plate. Husband Robert Leahy's striking photographs of local scenery and Amish and Mennonite neighbors supply an intimate portrait of a weekend in the country. (Apr.)