An American living in Spain since 1966, Mendel (Traditional Spanish Cooking) is a teacher and advocate of her adopted cuisine, which, she says, never quite caught on like other ethnic food in the U.S. because Spanish emigrants tended to settle south of our border. Continuing to fill this void, Mendel prepares a new panoply of dishes gathered from around the country, nearly all within easy grasp of American home cooks. She has seven versions of Gazpacho. Tapas include Crispy Potatoes with Hot Sauce and Moorish Kebabs, which are Moorish only in the spicing since they are made with pork. Bread is a frequent ingredient as in Jaén Style Spinach with Crispy Croutons and Tender Lamb Chops Sautéed with Garlic, where it serves as a sauce thickener. Mendel frequently calls for sweet pimentón, Spanish paprika, as a vital seasoning, but most ingredients are commonly found in the U.S. From Galicia she offers Savory Scallop Pie, a double-crusted enticement baked in a 12-inch pie or paella pan. Duck Braised with Olives is a specialty of the wetlands below Seville. Summer bounty lifts Chicken Sautéed with Fresh Tomato to rapturous heights of taste. Spain is bullfighting territory, of course, and the macho appetite for bravery is fed with Bull's Testicles, a dish that Mendel concedes can be made instead with sweetbreads. Mendel's convincing crusade on behalf of Spanish fare will undoubtedly win more converts to her cause. (June)
