The Good Cook's Book of Oil & Vinegar with More Than 100 Recipes

Culinary enthusiasts will find this book original and delightful; Jordan ( A Cook's Tour of Sonoma ) identifies, defines and questions the authenticity of oils and vinegars, ingredients at the heart of cuisines modern and ancient, ingredients which, as the author tells us, ``in one form or another have been companions since the beginning of our own history.'' Jordan explains how to produce flavored vinegars at home, how to deep fat fry--with various oils' smoke points--how to make croutons and how to conduct a vinegar (or an oil) tasting and cooking in parchment. The recipes are individual and while they contain vinegar, oil or both, they are not contrived. Some of the best include smoky gazpacho, perfect (twice fried) French fries, Algerian carrots, oysters and mushrooms in parchment, vinegar taffy made with balsamic vinegar, and walnut and black pepper biscotti. (Oct.)