SM's Italian Desserts

In her latest endeavor, Sanchez (Sweet Maria's Cake Kitchen and Sweet Maria's Italian Cookie Tray) serves up enticing recipes for Italian and Italian-American specialties, including the ubiquitous cookies as well as cakes and tarts. Sanchez's spirit is casual, and her recipes rely on readily available ingredients as is typical of Italian dessert making, which is often improvisational in spirit. Ricotta and citrus, nuts and fresh fruits are showcased in their full, tasty glory. There are Fig and Walnut Biscotti, perfect for dunking in wine or espresso; Chocolate Calzone, little pockets of chocolate dough enclosing a chocolate and nut filling; and, of course, Italian Ladyfingers, essential for Tiramisu. There are nut cakes and rich chocolate cakes with chestnut cream or Polenta Cake topped with sour cherry filling. An Italian cheesecake features ricotta and is scented with amaretto. Bountiful fruit tarts include fig, pear and pine nut. There are traditional favorites, such as cannoli as well as sweet breads, for Christmas and Easter. The treats beguile but what may be even more appealing is the atmosphere they create--coffee on the porch and Sunday dinners with the whole family. (Sept.)