cover image R.Finigan's Essnt Wine

R.Finigan's Essnt Wine

Robert Finigan. Alfred A. Knopf, $19.95 (385pp) ISBN 978-0-394-51591-5

This chatty guide, emphasizing geography and individual winemakers, offers connoisseurs a substantial body of practical information with which to make intelligent choices. There are assessments of American wines, as well as of a number of importsnotably from France, Germany, Italy and Spainand pithy notes on labeling and government regulations. Unfortunately, readers who are ready to move up from ""trivial'' California Chablis may conclude that wine selection is risky for the uninitiated. Descriptions of wines as ``eccentric'' and ``farcical'' provide little assistance, promoting snobbery as much as expertise. Likewise, accounts of ``magical village names'' and estates ``like jewels on velvet'' prove that the poetry is best left to the wine. Food and wine critic Finigan publishes ``Private Guides to Wines,'' a monthly newsletter. Illustrations not seen by PW. BOMC alternate. (April 14)