Ann Clark's Fabulous Fish

This is a serious, diligent cookbook, chock-ful of recipes and a thorough examination of cooking procedures, equipment requirements and appropriate flavorings for fish and shellfish. The recipes are straightforward and, for the most part, comprise simple preparations. Clark's thoughtful interpretations of popular cuisine include oysters wrapped in spinach with champagne sabayon, lobster, kiwi and orange salad with tomato vinaigrette and sauteed catfish with two Texas butters. Clark offers a number of bouillons, marinades, butters and sauces, explaining whether they are suitable for lean or fatty fish, but encourages readers to experiment and create their own combinations. Wine and menu recommendations are provided. Clark is the director of a cooking school in Austin, Tex. Photos not seen by PW. (August 28)