Falling Off the Bone

Striking a recessionary tone, Anderson (New Doubleday Cookbook) explores not just beef, veal, lamb, and pork, but focuses specifically upon their less expensive, "bony and/or sinewy cuts." The handy preface provides tips on tenderization, and there are charts illustrating from where upon each animal the tough cuts are carved. Judging from the 163 recipes, there appear to be three essential solutions for dealing with the likes of chuck, rump, riblets, and pig's feet. One can throw them in a soup, cook them low and slow, or surround them with intense flavors. Jade soup with pork and veal dumpling balls, for example, uses ground shoulder, bread crumbs, and cheese for the dumplings, with a buttermilk soup full of chopped spinach. Carbonnade flamande, a Belgian stew, is one of many dishes designed for the slow cooker. Boneless chuck, onions, garlic, and beer are simmered for four hours, then served with boiled potatoes. There are high heat options such as green chili with pinto beans, or spicy braised pork belly, as well as tepid on the tongue choices such as cold sliced veal with tuna mayonnaise, or good ole corned beef and cabbage. (Oct.)