Around the Edge

Ford, former Christian Science Monitor correspondent for Central America, here recounts his arduous, often perilous three-month exploration of Central America's east coast from Belize to Panama. On foot and in craft of all kinds, from a $1-million racing yacht to a molasses barge to leaky dugout canoes, he traversed idyllic and harsh territory, fishing villages and decaying towns. Of particular interest are sharply drawn portraits of Mayans, Africans and Carib Garifunas of ancient lineage, and of Miskito Indians whose ancestors were kings modeled on British royalty. Ford's adventures during an erratic, improvised itinerary included crossing the Honduran-Nicaraguan border in wartime with repatriated Miskitos, and trekking with guerrillas through wild, disputed areas of Nicaragua. Animated by the author's lively curiosity and reportorial sense, this unusual travelogue about a little-known region is full of odd bits of chaotic history, languages and local customs. (Aug.)