Simple Fare: Rediscovering the Pleasures of Real Food

``As inflation shrinks the dollar,'' laments Johnson, ``honest, frugal feasts are hard come by.'' The San Francisco restaurateur, caterer, poet ( Ark ) and cookbook writer ( The American Table ) offers hearty international and regional cuisine, from ``poor man's'' cassoulet to ``real right'' scrambled eggs, Amish ``washday dinner'' and pasta with ``harlot's sauce'' (garlic, herbs, tomatoes, olives). Beginners will learn how to ``partner'' sausages with cabbages, sauerkraut, green peppers or potatoes--and will, Johnson promises, eventually master the souffle--while few sophisticates will have reason to sneer at Johnson's versions of such classics as breast of lamb Provencal, onion soup and apple dumplings. Dieters may object to the author's use of salt, butter, cream and, occasionally, lard; devotees of yup-scale specialties may find the lack of culinary froufrou (e.g., truffles) distressing. But Johnson's robust, budget-conscious meals are resoundly satisfying. Illustrations not seen by PW. (July)