cover image Fruit: A Connoisseur's Guide and Cookbook

Fruit: A Connoisseur's Guide and Cookbook

Alan Davidson. Simon & Schuster, $30 (0pp) ISBN 978-0-671-72884-7

Davidson and Knox, collaborators on Seafood , team up again on this beautiful and practical guide to fruits and nuts harvested worldwide. In size, seriousness and attention to detail, the volume is rather atlas-like. And it's overdue, what with ``the astonishing changes which have taken place in the last two decades in the availability of what were formerly . . . exotic fruits.'' Crisply written, spectacularly illustrated, the book diverges into etymology and history--and the ``sexual habits'' of the papaya--as well as providing recipes and preparation tips. While recipes are culled from many sources and countries, some of the most interesting are examples of British confectionery at its most enchanting: Sir Kenelm Digby's cordial tabletssic (a sugar cure), Brompton Cemetery blackberry foolsic and Cumberland plate cake.sic Also included are recipes for conserved fruits (candied, glaced, and leathered), along with illustrated techniques for coring and carving pineapple and peeling and dicing mango. (Nov.)