cover image The Bean Cookbook: A Celebration of the Delicious Legume from Hoppin' John to Simple Cassoulet

The Bean Cookbook: A Celebration of the Delicious Legume from Hoppin' John to Simple Cassoulet

Judith Choate. Simon & Schuster, $20 (128pp) ISBN 978-0-671-73549-4

This attractive photographed addition to the increasing legume literature contains an enticing variety of simple-to-prepare recipes by chef and caterer Choate ( Meat & Potatoes ) with a useful introduction that includes not only descriptions but also color photographs of a generous variety of beans. Choate suggests how best to soak dried beans, store beans and freeze cooked beans; she has logically grouped her recipes into sections on appetizers, soups, main courses and accompaniments. Some of the most interesting include bean cakes with caviar and creme fraiche, lentil onion soup with cheddar crust, seared salmon with black bean scallion sauce and bean risotto with baked Italian sausage. While the recipes are technically correct, the writer's voice does not carry distinctively; avid readers of cookbook narratives may be disappointed. Ethnically inspired recipes for picadillo, risi e bici, feijoada and cassoulet probably deserve some sort of definition or introduction. Equally confounding is a chapter called ``miscellaneous,'' which brings together recipes for ceci, bean pie, falafel and bean pizza with no clues about the recipes' origins or suggestions for how they can fit into a menu. (Sept.)