Delicioso! the Regional Cooking of Spain

Casas (Discovering Spain; Tapas) continues her thorough exploration of Spanish cooking with this superbly organized and definitive cookbook. For each region of the country she chooses a specialty. For example, labeling the Southeastern coast as the ""Region of the Rices,"" she includes a history of rice growing in Spain and of the area, as well as brief overviews on such related topics as paella and saffron. Chatty, engaging and full of detail, the book could easily double as a travel (or at least restaurant) guide. The recipes are outstanding. In that same chapter there are 14 rice dishes, none repetitive and all tempting, from a simple and classic Rice with Greens to the more complex Vegetable Paella with Mint-Scented Meatballs. Each regional section contains ""Notes on Regional Wines."" Casas does not hesitate to challenge the home cook with unusual fare, such as Black Sausage with Raisins and Pine Nuts, or with unfamiliar techniques, such as soaking bacalao in cold water for two to three days in the recipe for Dried Cod in Onion and Red Pepper Puree. The rewards, however, are rich and varied. (Apr.)