cover image Desserts to Die for

Desserts to Die for

Marcel Desaulniers. Simon & Schuster, $30 (0pp) ISBN 978-0-684-81139-0

A mordant wit leavens the invaluable culinary advice and stunningly extravagant, stylish recipes collected in this new offering from James Beard Award-winning DeSaulniers (Death by Chocolate), co-owner/chef of Trellis Restaurant in Williamsburg, Va. Aided by assistant chef Peavey, DeSaulniers begins with extensive notes from the test kitchen; given the labor and assembly required for these imaginative concoctions, he does his best to set the home cook up for success with tips on organization and ingredient selection. A few recipes are rich and simple, e.g., the ice creams; Mrs. D's Chocolate Caramels (from the author's mom); Toasted Brandy and Spice Pound Cake. Most are rich and complex--and seductive. Pillars of Chocolate with Cocoa Thunderheads, featuring skyscraper shapes of ganache-spread chocolate cake wrapped around blocks of ice cream rising from clouds of cocoa'd whipped cream will require hours, patience and skill, but will surely draw gasps of admiration and delight from those served. Raspberry-tipped, chocolate-draped, horn-shaped ``bustiers'' poke perkily from mounds of raspberry-laced whipped cream in Chocolate Madonna. Chocolate Voodoo Cake bristles with long thin spikes of chocolate caramel adorning a molasses/chocolate-glazed, rum-soaked Zombie Cake. For the most ambitious efforts, DeSaulniers provides illustrations and recommends spreading preparation over days. This is a masterfully photographed collection, sure to inspire smiles, pleasurable overreaching and very sweet satisfaction. Homestyle and Better Homes and Gardens selections; author tour. (Nov.)