cover image Healthy Firehouse Cookbook

Healthy Firehouse Cookbook

Joseph T. Bonanno. Morrow Cookbooks, $20 (312pp) ISBN 978-0-688-12755-8

As early as 1923, firehouse cooking had begun to win a favorable reputation in the United States for the enormous, hearty, unpretentious meals that are its trademark. As medical research about diet and stress continued to implicate high-cholesterol and high-fat foods, many firefighters began to realize that their professions alone put them at high risk for early mortality--why not fight the odds of a diet-linked cancer or illness? ``I accepted that I could die in a fire,'' writes Bonanno, a native New Yorker and firefighter, ``but I didn't want to die from injuries sustained at the kitchen table.'' Over time, Bonanno modified many of the traditional firehouse recipes, developing a low-fat aesthetic that was slowly embraced by his fellow firefighters. His book collects these revisionary efforts, plus those of like-minded cooks from fire departments across the U.S. Delicious and simple, the recipes feature lots of carbohydrates and fresh produce. No back-of-the-box standbys here: look instead for sophisticated pairings, such as balsamic vinegar and shallots to heighten the flavor of pan-seared chicken, and cucumber cumin salad dressing, where the pureed vegetables and yogurt replace the traditional oil and vinegar. Bonanno's voice is sensible, direct and slyly humorous. The nine chapters are leavened with quips, jokes and historical notes on America's firefighting traditions, amid recipes for breakfasts, salads, soups, stews, pasta and rice, fish and seafood, poultry and meat, pizza and bread, side dishes and desserts. A key reason to buy this book for someone setting up a household for the first time is the in-depth discussion of fire safety in the kitchen. ``More fires start in the kitchen than anywhere else in the house,'' the author observes, elaborating on safe cooking techniques that may surprise even old hands. Photos not seen by PW. Author tour. (Feb.)