cover image Light Jewish Holiday Desserts

Light Jewish Holiday Desserts

Penny Wantuck Eisenberg. William Morrow & Company, $25 (336pp) ISBN 978-0-688-15985-6

Written in a no-nonsense style, this baking book will expand the range of holiday treats without drastically expanding their waistlines. Caterer and cooking instructor Eiesenberg cuts much of the fat out of traditional recipes, replacing portions of the butter with lower-fat substitutions such as canola oil, nonfat sour cream and pureed fruits. Babka, for example, contains just three grams of fat rather than the usual 18. And Apple Latkes require less oil than usual. But Eisenberg has her priorities straight--flavor comes first. Aside from offering healthier variations, she also presents some unexpected variations. She enriches her repertoire with dozens of tempting ideas from Eastern European, Mediterranean and Middle Eastern traditions. The recipes follow the calendar, from the High Holy Days to the Sabbath observed each week, providing a concise overview of each holiday's significance and the food associated with its celebration. For Rosh Hashanah and Yom Kippur there's traditional Honey Cake and an Apple Mousse concoction. For Sukkot a refreshing Lemon Mousse Charlotte can grace the table, as well as a Deep Dish Pear Cherry Gratin topped with crunchy buttered bread crumbs. For Passover there's Fresh Strawberry Torte. Cookie recipes include chocolate spiral Rugelach with only one-third of the fat of unmodified recipes, as well as Sephardic Half Moon Cookies and date-filled Middle Eastern Filled Crescents. (Sept.)