Totally Dairy-Free Cooking

Believing that ""humans were never meant to consume dairy products,"" New York City Chef Lanza sets out to replace dairy without sacrificing flavor. The popularity of his three restaurants (Josie's, Josephina, Citrus Bar and Grill) attest to his success, and his first book will find favor with the lactose-intolerant as well as the health-conscious eater. Lanza admits that soy products can take some getting used to, but he slips them successfully into appetizers (cinnamon-spiked Roasted Kabocha Squash Soup), entr es (Penne with Soy Vegetable Bolognese) and desserts (Jasmine Rice and Banana Pudding). His practical approach--using readily available, brand-name products--balances nicely his creative culinary flourishes, such as Chicken Fajitas (free range) with Cilantro-Walnut Pesto. Lanza makes the idea of eliminating dairy products seem reasonable; selections like Wild Mushroom, Lentil and Walnut P t , and Monkfish ""Osso Buco"" with Tomato Soy Sauce, prove his point that health food need never be tasteless. Nutritional information accompanies each recipe. (Jan.)