cover image ROME, AT HOME: The Spirit of La Cucina Romana in Your Own Kitchen

ROME, AT HOME: The Spirit of La Cucina Romana in Your Own Kitchen

Suzanne Dunaway, . . Broadway, $29.95 (304pp) ISBN 978-0-7679-1377-5

"Simple is better," says Dunaway (No Need to Knead ) in her introductory note explaining the Roman way of cooking, and she adheres to that notion as she revisits scores of familiar, uncomplicated dishes, such as Bruschetta, Minestrone, Saltimbocca alla Romana, Polenta and Tiramisu. Because she does include so many conventional recipes, Dunaway duplicates much Italian fare appearing in other titles. Even so, she does make her presence felt by sharing some firm personal convictions. She declares unequivocally that there should not be cream in Fettuccine all'Alfredo, even though it is a frequent ingredient in the recipes of others. Nor does she allow zucchini or olives in her rendition of Caponata—although she does suggest adding the ethereal flavor of fennel. Dunaway's idiosyncratic take on Spaghetti al Pesto eschews the usual pine nuts in favor of pistachios, which, she asserts, tame the garlic and contribute a welcome texture. Among the more esoteric recipes are Slow-Roasted Pork Belly Meat, Stuffed with Herbs and Garlic and Thin Cured Beef with Arugula, which takes several weeks to complete. (Mar.)

Forecast: Dunaway's reputation as founder of L.A.'s Buona Forchetta Handmade Breads may help sell this, but it won't supplant other favorites on the Italian shelves.