THE NEW AMERICAN STEAKHOUSE COOKBOOK: It's Not Just Meat and Potatoes Anymore

The chef at three popular Manhattan steakhouses, Walzog aims to dispel the "utter predictability" of most such venues by endowing his sides, fish, poultry and meats other than beef with big flavors. This ambition, of course, can require plenty of time for the home cook to make such hors d'oeuvres as Seafood Cocktail with Three Relishes or Warm Crabmeat Tartlets with Spicy Dijon Cream. But Walzog's professional familiarity with the grill does allow him to perfect some time-efficient techniques for such dishes as Grilled Long Island Duck Breast with Charred Tomato-Smoked Chile Sauce and Taleggio Cheese, and Seaweed-Steamed Maine Lobster and Grilled Corn on the Cob. Steaks, naturally, receive ample attention, and Walzog includes tips on buying them and on seasoning the beef before tossing it on the grill. He uses oil, salt and pepper only, eschewing flavorful rubs or marinades that obscure the meat's taste (though an inspiring chapter covers condiments and sauces like Mango-Cumin Cream for shrimp or lobster and a more traditional Steakhouse Sauce). Helping the cook are pointers in many of the recipes indicating which elements can be prepared in advance. This is an appealing mix of expected and unusual fare. Photos. Agent, Angela Miller. (Apr. 12)