Christmas is Cookies: And Gingerbread and Spice Cake and Fudge and More

December is cookies in the Everyday Cookbook series (Wednesday Is Spaghetti; Monday Is Meatloaf). There's not much here that can't be found in the old standards like Joy of Cooking or Fannie Farmer, but then it's hard to turn away from such homey favorites as Sugar Cookie Cut-Outs, Pfeffernusse, Snickerdoodles and Jam Thumbprints wherever you find them. Cakes, pies and puddings, candy, quick breads and coffee cakes are also represented. Some treats, like dried fruit-studded Dundee Cake, Plum Pudding and Sweet Potato Pie, have been gracing holiday tables for generations; others may have slipped out of vogue but deserve a fresh glance (minty Grasshopper Pie or Raspberry Cheesecake on a chocolate cookie crust). The editors stick to their measuring with little chat, but a few caveats are in order. Some lists of ingredients are difficult to follow, since there's no distinction made between those used for a pie crust, for example, and those for the filling. The tip that dough rolls out more successfully when chilled comes eight recipes after it's needed for Sugar Cookie Cut-Outs. Just the facts may be just fine for everyday cooking, but holidays demand a more expansive approach. (Nov.)