cover image Saha: A Chef’s Journey Through Lebanon and Syria

Saha: A Chef’s Journey Through Lebanon and Syria

Greg Malouf, Lucy Malouf, , photos by Matt Harvey, foreword by Anthony Bourdain. . Tuttle/Periplus, $49.95 (272pp) ISBN 978-0-7946-0490-5

Lebanese and Syrian cuisine gets an Australian accent in this half-cookbook, half-travelogue by the formerly married Maloufs. Greg, the chef, infuses the piquant classical flavors and age-old methods with new styling (Parmesan-Crumbed Quail), and sometimes vice-versa (Caesar salad with air-dried beef, Swiss Chard Risotto with Lobster), but he also presents many classics straight up, from Bedouin spinach and Lentil Soup to Lamb Shawarma and Crunchy Sesame Pistachio Cookies. Lucy’s narrative of the pair’s month-long sojourn in the Middle East provides a skeleton for the book, as her descriptions of their visits to dairies, butchers, bakers and preserve-makers precede recipes that incorporate yogurt and cheese, meats, assorted breads and condiments like the powerful red pepper paste or bitter orange marmalade. Her accounts of restaurants and sightseeing at times sound overly steeped in the tone of breathless articles from high-end travel magazines, but she also includes a good deal of historical information. Harvey’s splendid photography of people and landscapes in addition to food give the book an authentic and lively flair. The recipe instructions frequently lack specificity, but experienced cooks intrigued by the rich traditions of cooking and culture (and not dissuaded by the price) will find a solid guide in this book. (Nov.)