cover image The Complete Seafood Cookbook

The Complete Seafood Cookbook

Bettina Jenkins. Tuttle Publishing, $34.95 (0pp) ISBN 978-0-8048-3071-3

No assumptions are made in this ambitious cookbook, which offers much to novice and expert alike. Jenkins, a cooking instructor who specializes in seafood, lays a solid foundation in a lengthy introduction that begins with what to look for in buying fish (bright, bulging eyes, firm flesh), crustaceans (they should be active, with limbs and claws intact) and mollusks (tightly closed shells), and continues with illustrated cleaning and preparation methods and tips on storing and freezing. Included as well is a glossary of ingredients found in the recipes. The body of the book is divided into five indexed sections: first courses; main courses; soups; sauces; and basic recipes, which comprises a wide selection of batters, marinades and stuffings. There are recipes for every taste from the new and trendy (Shrimp, Tomato and Roasted Garlic on Foccacia) to the complexly flavored (Steamed Snapper in Caper, Olive and Pine Nut Sauce ) to those of another era (Oysters with Sour Cream and Cheese). Substitutions are liberally suggested. The recipes are clear, concise and uncomplicated (although some more exotic ingredients, like fenugreek and garam masala, are omitted from the glossary). The ease of preparation and the extensive reference material make this impressive cookbook live up to its name. Photos not seen by PW. (Oct.)