cover image The Romagnolis' Italian Fish Cookbook: A Large Embrace and a Light Touch

The Romagnolis' Italian Fish Cookbook: A Large Embrace and a Light Touch

Margaret Romagnoli. Henry Holt & Company, $25 (334pp) ISBN 978-0-8050-2526-2

Fish is a staple in many cuisines, Italian not the least. Here the Romagnolis ( The Romagnolis' Table ) thoughtfully research and adapt myriad Italian fish recipes for the American table. As the authors remind their readers, fish is one of the healthiest things to eat; but, they maintain, most Americans are ignorant of fish cooking techniques beyond frying and broiling. The Romagnolis knowledgeably discuss the types of fish used in Italian dishes, how to shop for and prepare them and what utensils to have on hand. They pass on advice about how to judge when fish is properly cooked and how to avoid overcooking. In these recipes, fish can take center stage, as with swordfish in spicy sauce with polenta, or be paired with pasta or couscous. Fish shows up in razor clam antipasto and in Sicilian fish soup. Cooking techniques include baking, poaching and grilling, as well as frying and boiling. The authors also offer recipes for enhancements, such as mayonnaise and sauces. The recipes are clear and well-written, but not for novices; readers with some cooking experience will fare best. Likewise, anyone not willing to soak salt cod for 12 hours, make her own fish stock, or clean fish, when necessary, had better stick to fish and chips. (May)