Better with Buttermilk

Benning, who admits to ""a shudder at the very notion of drinking buttermilk,"" is an avowed fan of its use in cooking because of its low cholesterol and fat content. An often misunderstood member of the dairy family, buttermilk is what's left after the butter has been churned from cream. Benning (Oh, Fudge!) promotes buttermilk's nutritional value and versatility and advocates using a butter stretcher she invented (made with gelatin, dried buttermilk, vegetable oil and butter) to reduce fat and cholesterol in baking. Nevertheless, many recipes call for lard, cream or eggs. Ideally, readers should forget calorie counting and simply enjoy the results of the easy-to-follow recipes. Buttermilk is a mainstay for bakers as it tenderizes baked goods, and nearly half the chapters deal with cakes, pies, muffins, doughnuts, biscuits, breads, etc., from Buttermilk Pound Cake to Peaches and Cream Pie and Pepper Corn Bread. It's also a featured ingredient in salad dressings (Buttermilk Herb Dressing), soups (Creamlesss Cream of Tomato Soup; Shrimp Bisque) and vegetable dishes (Savory Corn Bake; Rice and Chile Pepper Casserole). A crash course in dairy history includes such tidbits as buttermilk's use as a silver polish and freckle remover. (June)