The Plain & Fancy Mustard Cookbook

Calvert entered the condiment trade after her homemade mustards made a big hit at her Santa Cruz, Calif., restaurant, the Cedar Street Cafe. Here she offers hundreds of uses for this ancient spice. The collection of soups, salads, main dishes and sauces is tasteful, if predictable. Many recipes seem overly simple (the familiar version plus one tablespoon of Dijon), but there are also subtle creations, like swordfish steaks with sorrel hollandaise or brandied duck with olives. Calvert does not give directions for making mustard, which is disappointing, but there is an appealing selection of sauces, and, to prove she has a sense of humor, she includes a recipe for ""Token Chocolate Cake,'' made with mustard and mayo. (September)