Grilling and Barbecuing

This is another in a recent cavalcade of cookbooks that show that barbecuing can be more than the weekend ritual of Dad slapping steaks on the grill. Carroll and Walker do begin with steak, but then move to rolled brisket and ribs, and all manner of pork, lamb, poultry (including turkey and quail) and fish. They roast, smoke-cook, even stir fry over coals. The sauces and marinades are delicious, unpretentious amalgams; the authors are smart enough not to fuss much with a way of cooking that brings a flavor of its own. Instead, they wisely concentrate on teaching good grilling techniques. There are also fine chapters on homemadecondiments, salads andsometimes grilledbreads and desserts. (July)