Taste of Southeast as

Southeast Asian food is low in fat and calories, tangy and tasty, and Hansen ( Mexican Cookery provides here an exotic culinary experience for the adventurous cook. There are sample menus and an abundant, well-organized selection of tempting specialties, including ginger squid, South Indian potatoes, water-chestnut pudding and preserved plum drink. A brief history discusses the development of nonya cooking in Singapore, the influence of Islam on the Brunei diet and of China on Thai cuisine and how French bread found its way to Vietnam. Southeast Asian cookery is practical and versatile: rice and noodles extend many meat and fish dishes; the book offers six styles of curry; ingredients or suggested substitutes are easily obtained; and cooking equipment is minimal. Food terminology may differ from country to country, but Hansen guides readers through the nomenclature. Photos not seen by PW. (March 30)