The Pleasures of Afternoon Tea

Prior to the Boston Tea Party, tea-drinking was as much a social institution in this country as in England, notes Hynes (coauthor of The Silver/Gray Beauty Book. Two early 20th century American contributionsiced tea and tea bagsmay have been ""regarded as sacrilegious by true tea buffs,'' but they did increase the beverage's popularity here. Aimed at those readers susceptible to romance, tradition and Anglophilia, this work is somewhat self-conscious and lacks the personality and depth of Michael Smith's recent The Afternoon Tea Book (Atheneum). Notwithstanding, Pleasures meets high artistic standards (mouthwatering color photographs and an appealing design) and, most important, its recipes are varied and delicious. Hynes presents the traditional farescones, breads and buns, cakes, cookies and tartsas well as such hearty savories as Scotch eggs, Cornish pasties and mushroom turnovers, and more delicate finger sandwiches and filled puffs. (June 2)