cover image The Zen of Fish: The Story of Sushi, from Samurai to Supermarket

The Zen of Fish: The Story of Sushi, from Samurai to Supermarket

Trevor Corson, . . HarperCollins, $24.95 (372pp) ISBN 978-0060883508

To the uninitiated, few things can be more intimidating than a sushi bar. Though the process of ordering and eating sushi isn't nearly as involved as some would think, it does require a certain amount of knowledge and etiquette to dine properly. Thankfully, Corson (The Secret Life of Lobsters ) presents an exhaustive look at sushi and the chefs who prepare it that will go a long way toward instilling confidence. Alternating between the cuisine's history and the key steps in a sushi chef's education, Corson puts the reader in the thick of things à la Michael Ruhlman's Making of a Chef , detailing the laborious process of making rice, the preparation of a myriad of fish and the storied history of the California Roll. Corson covers close to 30 plants and animals over the course of the book, which becomes a bit wearying, but his structure prevents the material from overwhelming readers, and his enthusiasm for the topic is infectious—especially when the subject turns to the popularity of sushi in landlocked states or the perils of dealing with mackerel. Given the breadth and scope of the book (a bibliography and source list are included), Corson has created what could be the definitive work on the topic, enabling customers to comfortably and confidently stride into a sushi restaurant and order omakase without trepidation. Corson seems to sense this, as an addendum regarding sushi bar etiquette closes with the admonishment, “Most experts agree on one thing. Customers who show off their sushi knowledge are tiresome. Chefs appreciate customers who would rather eat sushi than talk about it.” (June)