cover image The Chilean Kitchen: Authentic, Homestyle Foods, Regional Wines and Culinary Traditions of Chile

The Chilean Kitchen: Authentic, Homestyle Foods, Regional Wines and Culinary Traditions of Chile

Ruth Van Waerebeek-Gonzalez. HP Books, $18.95 (324pp) ISBN 978-1-55788-307-0

Born in Belgium, Van Waerebeek-Gonzalez may at first seem an unlikely author for a book on Chilean cooking, yet the many asides that accompany her recipes leave no doubt that she fully understands, and enjoys, the country's culinary customs. Though the author and her husband own a restaurant in southern Chile, the dishes in her book focus on the simple foods that Chileans prepare at home. Tortilla de Zanahorias, for example, combines garlic and fresh carrots in a thick omelet that is then sliced and served as an appetizer. Salsa fans will appreciate the zesty Chancho en Piedra, made with garlic, cilantro, oregano and tomatoes, and Pevre Verde, which forgoes tomatoes, relying instead on large quantities of fresh cilantro and chopped onions. These salsas make a fine accompaniment to the book's many seafood recipes: for example, Seafood Pie layers spicy sausage, mussels and clams in an earthenware dish that is then baked with a topping of crushed corn and basil. Van Waerebeek-Gonzalez explains each dish's provenance, and in her many sidebars, she introduces readers to typical Chilean customs, such as serving bread with a spread made of mashed avocado seasoned with salt and pepper instead of butter. Though the dishes may seem a bit bland to those used to spicier South American fare, gourmets who appreciate hearty combinations of simple flavors will be well rewarded. (Aug.)