cover image Cooking Under Cover: One-Pot Wonders - A Treasury of Soups, Stews, Braises & Casseroles

Cooking Under Cover: One-Pot Wonders - A Treasury of Soups, Stews, Braises & Casseroles

Linda Griffith. Houghton Mifflin Harcourt (HMH), $29.95 (352pp) ISBN 978-1-57630-015-2

The secret to the success of one-pot dishes, say the Griffiths (Onions, Onions, Onions), is the cover, ""the lid that keeps everything in, retains the heat, captures the steam, holds the aromas, and enhances the flavors."" Demonstrating the versatility of this technique, this collection borrows from many sources, e.g., an old Southern cookbook or Old World Jewish holiday fare, and offers up such anything-but-humble dishes as Chicken Stew with Virginia Ham, Mushrooms, Peas & Cornmeal Dumplings or Beer-Braised Veal Brisket with Onions & Parsnips. Nor is the preparation necessarily simple. Employing a variety of techniques ranging from braising and roasting to poaching and smothering, some of the 200 recipes call for specialty ingredients from Middle Eastern and Asian markets, lengthy cooking times and close to 20 ingredients. The collection's extensive range is seen in recipes for as Tea-Smoked Scallops; Artichoke Barigoule; Braised Trout with Onions and Peppers; Creamy Polenta with Mascarpone; Maple-Braised Plums, Figs, and Blackberries; and Gingered Carrot Cake. When appropriate, the authors suggest a wine. With these versions of old-fashioned comfort foods prepared with respectful attention, the Griffiths refresh a rich culinary resource, making traditional family fare into food fit for company--and just in time for the cold winter months. Photos not seen by PW. BOMC main selection. (Oct.)