cover image The River Cottage Fish Book

The River Cottage Fish Book

Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall and Nick Fisher. Ten Speed, $45 (608p) ISBN 978-1-60774-005-6

In the latest of his British cookbooks re-edited for an American audience, the usually land-loving proprietor of River Cottage brings along an aptly surnamed seafood expert to explore a huge variety of crustaceous or finned delicacies. The collection bears the three classic earmarks of Fearnley-Whittingstall’s writing. First, it is comprehensive to a fault. The 135 recipes are preceded by a 100-page chapter entitled “Understanding Fish,” which examines the food’s health benefits as well as necessary knife skills for the chef. And the final third of the book is a guide to sea creatures presented in encyclopedic format, from the history of herring to the lifecycle of the budgie. Second, he maintains a strong focus on sustainable eating. Not only are there rules for sustainable shopping and a list of threatened species to avoid, but also, amid treats like lobster with herb mayonnaise, and sea bass baked in raw salt, there is a section on thrift (i.e., leftovers) with entries including roast pollock head, and deep-fried fish skins. The third trait involves the disarming straightforwardness he often exhibits toward the dispatch of his prey. In a brief meditation entitled “Killing fish,” he observes that the most effective means is “a sharp crack across the head,” using either a “bosher” made specifically for the deed, or a “well-chosen found object.” Thus, a secondary function is born for this 600-page hardcover. (Mar.)