The Catalan Country Kitchen: Food and Wine from the Pyrenees to the Mediterranean Seacoast of Barcelona

The food of Spain's northeastern Catalunya province is here divided into the game-oriented inland fare and the better-known coastal seafood. Catalan author Torres ( The Spanish Table ) has lived in California for more than 15 yearsxxii as the well-known Torres winemaking family's North American export directorxxiii , and in presenting Catalan ``country'' cooking (somewhat ill-famed for its ``cabbage-and-cream'' heaviness) to Americans, she favors the lighter dishes43 , lightens up some of the heavier ones64 , and even suggests that a dish traditionally considered a first course may be ``substantial enough to serve as a main course fora lunch or light supper.''87, 43 This approach places front and center the dishes likely to entice most readers: aromatic and savory soups, rabbit and poultry braised or roasted with garlic or fruit dressings, and stews seasoned with the ``classic quartet''103 of rosemary, thyme, oregano and bay. The more familiar seafood gets full justice, including an outstanding paella methodwhat is this? unclear . Torres presents each recipe concisely and yet completely, and her evocative introductions to every dish are always welcome. Her notes on wines are simple but useful, although the chapter dedicated to them is little more than a charming tour of the region's producers. (Apr.)