Classic Scandinavian Cooking

This worthwhile, revised edition of The Art of Scandinavian Cooking (originally published more than 20 years ago) offers some basic guidelines (e.g., for smorgasbord and smorrebrodDanish open-faced sandwiches) that won't overwhelm newcomers to the cuisine. Fish, an important Scandinavian staple, is well represented. Preparations tend to be mildly seasoned, as in Norwegian fish pudding, but adventurous cooks should try the unusually flavored Swedish marinated salmon or Danish fried eels with creamed potatoes. Norwegian hot cauliflower with shrimp and Finnish rutabaga pudding are among the creative vegetable dishes, but readers may question the inclusion of recipes utilizing meat from the endangered whale. Desserts range from a light orange souffle to wonderfully rich Swedish cream-meringue torte and Norwegian King Haakon's cake. The Danish pastry recipe may not provide adequate support for those making a first attempt, although bakers familiar with the process will enjoy trying this version and the applications suggested. (April)