Tom Douglas' Seattle Kitchen

In his three Seattle restaurants, Douglas capitalizes on the wealth of seafood and produce in the Northwest, while also emphasizing the robust fusion of tastes inherited from the city's multiethnic community. These components inform such starters as Tom's Tasty Sashimi Tuna Salad with Green Onion Pancakes and Tiny Clam and Seaweed Soup. One section of the book is devoted to the Japanese concept of bento, which traditionally presents several small tastes in a lacquered box. Douglas, however, employs a platter for his array of bento, which includes such items as Octopus with Green Papaya Slaw and Green Curry Vinaigrette, and Matsutake Dashi made with unusual matsutake mushrooms. Folks outside the area will need the mail-order sources Douglas suggests because some ingredients like matsutakes or kasu paste will be difficult to locate elsewhere. Most recipes, however, use accessible ingredients and techniques. The section on grilling includes Basic Barbecued Chicken and Maple-Cured Double-Cut Pork Chops with Grilled Apple Rings and Creamy Corn Grits. Recipes are primarily within the reach of home cooks, but many do require time. Roast Duck with Huckleberry Sauce and Parsnip-Apple Hash is one of the more demanding. Sides range from Red Beet Ravioli with Fresh Corn Relish to Grilled and Roasted Walla Walla Sweet Onions with Pine Nut Butter and Chard. Desserts are as simple as Peak-of-Summer Berry Crisp and as innovative as Apple Dumplings with Medjool Dates and Maple Sauce. (Jan.)