This collection of Asian- and Mediterranean-influenced dishes from celebrated cooking teacher Weir (Joanne Weir's More Cooking in the Wine Country
, etc.) succeeds on many levels. The recipes are solidly written; the dishes are appealing and flavorful. As Weir explains, "That range of possibility is so incredibly interesting to me and may be at the heart of why I love to be in the city, cooking and eating city food." She offers such recipes as Spicy Bulgur and Lentil Salad and Shanghai Noodles with Chicken, Cashews, Cilantro, and Mint, as well as Croutons with Tapenade, Orange and Fennel, and Autumn Cheddar, Apple, and Walnut Salad. Weir makes a valiant effort to develop the city theme by including quotes from the famous about cities, with a particular emphasis on her home, San Francisco. (Quotes such as Norman Mailer's "Chicago is a great American city," however, feel more like padding than insight.) And many headnotes refer back to urban living, like the one that introduces Grilled Squid Salad with Winter Citrus and extols indoor grilling. However, this loosely bound collection of modern dishes feels unfocused in the aggregate, and it's surprising to see such a practiced author playing fast and loose with language: a "Tuscany by Candlelight" menu consists of Bagna Cauda (from Piedmont), Prosciutto, Parmigiano, and Pepper Breadsticks (with main ingredients from Emilia-Romagna), Golden-Sautéed Veal with Arugula and Tomato Salad (from Milan, Lombardy's capital) and Warm Polenta Custard with Grappa-Soaked Golden Raisins (relying on ingredients from Friuli). (Mar.)
Forecast:
Despite the book's setbacks, Weir is a justly admired cooking teacher, and as the companion to a television series of the same name, this is likely to fare well.
