James Beard's Theory & Practice of Good Cooking

This redesigned and updated edition of previously out-of-print Beard classics will remind readers of the way we used to eat and what a master of detail Beard was. Recipes and other instructional sections are impeccable. The book is divided into sections according to cooking method (e.g., boiling, roasting); each section is then broken down into types of food, such as poultry and meat. This means that a chapter on broiling and grilling contains such varied recipes as London Broil, Broiled Eggplant Slices and Stuffed Clams. Scattered among the recipes are more informal paragraphs giving the steps for simpler fare such as Broiled Grapefruit and Broiled Hamburgers. It's a treat to read Beard's writing, which is full of childhood memories (of his mother rendering suet, for instance) and features his elegant yet commonsensical approach to cooking. On the other hand, the book sometimes works better as artifact than manual. Because of modern-day health concerns, dishes like Beefsteak and Kidney Pudding, Pears Poached in Red Wine, Steak au Poivre and Celery in Butter are unlikely to send today's readers racing to the kitchen. (Dec.) FYI: This volume is the first in a new series titled The James Beard Library of Great American Cooking.