Black Trumpet: A Chef’s Journey Through Eight New England Seasons

Mallett and his crew weren’t quite sure who they wanted to be when they opened Black Trumpet in Portsmouth, N.H., in the spring of 2007. Today, they’re the embodiment of the locally sourced movement, working with local farmers to craft terrific cuisine that speaks to the region and its history. Mallett shares over 250 recipes that make the most of New England’s offerings, including chestnut butter and fig jam finger sandwiches, cider-braised pork osso bucco, and pork schnitzel with pretzel spätzle. The must-try snacks include pan-fried smelts with Meyer lemon and caper aioli, ceviche with pico de gallo, and the beautifully simple Chile Pasta, a from-scratch pasta dough that incorporates a trio of chilies to add smoke and warmth. The majority of the book’s dishes are probably best ordered at the restaurant itself: potted fava bean pâté with rhubarb gelée, saffron pickled quail egg with serrano ham and aioli in a phyllo nest, and fried rabbit loin with cheesy polenta pudding and rhubarb salsa call for more time than readers may have for dinner. Still, if readers can forgive some of the book’s specificity (and Mallet’s cringeworthy literary affectations), they’re sure to find some great ideas and techniques. (Nov.)