The Modern Spice Rack

Walker, who owns the spice company Rooted Spices, and Clark, the former deputy food editor at BBC Good Food, debut with an exciting tour through the world of spices. An introductory chapter describes 24 spices, from familiar favorites (cinnamon) to hidden gems (amchur, “a spice on the move”), and offers recipes for blends. Subsequent chapters present spice-forward dishes developed by Clark. In the breakfast chapter, for instance, Turkish poached eggs on a swath of yogurt are perked up with Aleppo pepper, while Indian baked eggs with chickpeas incorporate cumin, coriander, and turmeric. Quick suppers include a tomato soup with za’atar and South Asian porridge with mustard seeds. More complex productions run along the lines of beef shins with ancho chile and braised lamb with prunes and harissa. Desserts include Italian almond cookies with grapefruit zest and Szechuan pepper, and strawberry and fennel seed ice cream. The authors frequently offer riffs, variations, and substitutions, and instructions are always clear, including a list of the spices used, the time required, and the level of effort involved. The wide range of recipes is both blessing and curse, however: it keeps proceedings interesting, but can sometimes lend an unfocused feel. Still, cooks looking to broaden their spice horizons will find this an inviting and generous collection. (May)