Activities heat up when the sun g s down -- don't miss anything

Los Angeles boasts enough nightlife to shake loose your inner hipster, no matter what your taste. Look for tequila cantinas and swanky martini lounges; high-profile clubs on the Sunset Strip; and elegant dance halls with crowds seduced by the sounds of salsa, swing and meringue. If dancing and lounging aren't your thing, this is still Tinseltown, with plenty of peculiar theaters showing not-quite-mainstream flicks. And since L.A. has more out-of-work actors than you can shake a stick at, it's replete with small- and medium-size theaters. In fact, on any given night, there's more live theater in L.A. than in New York City.

LOUNGE ACTS
The easiest way to segue from the day's business into after-hours mode is to head straight for a hotel lounge. If you're looking for something close to the Convention Center, submit to the Grand Avenue Sports Bar at the Biltmore Hotel, 506 S. Grand Ave. (213-612-1532). Or, for something a little more lofty, try heading up. Atop the 35-floor Westin Bonaventure hotel, 404 S. Figueroa St. (213-624-1000), is the panoramic Top of Five restaurant and Bona Vista, its adjacent cocktail lounge. Unwind while the city lights up against the enveloping evening sky.
Hollywood has its share of scenic-view restaurants and lounges; for my money, there's no better way to unwind than high above the city with a cocktail in tow. From the 19th story, the penthouse-perched restaurant and lounge 360, 6290 Sunset Blvd. (323-871-2995), is all about the view-all 360 degrees of it. The understated, sleek interior emphasizes the scene outside the wrap-around windows -- including a spectacular vista of the famed "Hollywood" sign. Monday through Friday, from 4 to 7 p.m., 360 offers two-for-one happy hour drink specials. Or enjoy the view of the city from Yamashiro, 1999 N. Sycamore Ave. (323-466-5125), a pagoda-and-garden perched in the hills above downtown Hollywood. Though Yamashiro is considered a "special occasion" Japanese restaurant, I prefer to enjoy a mai tai in the lounge and watch Hollywood's searchlights dance across the night sky -- a scene that makes up for the overpriced and mediocre food.
If you'd like someplace with a little more action, consider one of L.A.'s trendy new specialty or theme bars. El Carmen, 8138 W. Third St. (323-852-1552), is about 20 minutes from the Convention Center and sports a gargantuan list of at least 100 tequilas. The vintage Mexican movie posters, vibrant Latin American colors and oil paintings of masked Mexican wrestlers that decorate El Carmen's Quonset-hut interior conjure the feel of a back-alley border cantina from a bygone era. Within a five-minute drive from El Carmen is Lola's, 945 N. Fairfax Ave. (213-736-5652), whose swimming pool-size martinis make the short trek well worth it. From classic gin or vodka martinis for purists to chocolate- or apple-flavored concoctions for the adventurous, Lola's serves a little something for everyone. Two bars, a billiard table and plush couches hidden in dark, romantic corners make for an enjoyable setting -- and plenty of celeb spotting.
Across town, on Hollywood's eastern fringe, is the kung fu-themed Good Luck Bar, 1514 Hillhurst Ave., at Hollywood Blvd. (323-666-3524). Until the owners installed a flashing neon sign outside, only locals and hipsters were aware of this Silverlake/Los Feliz hangout. The dark red, windowless interior boasts Oriental ceiling tiles and tasseled Chinese paper lanterns, and the spacious sitting room provides a great atmosphere for conversation or romance. But it's the bartenders' sweet-but-deadly drinks that will keep you coming back.
Less trendy but always in style, the Cat N' Fiddle Pub and Restaurant, 6530 W. Sunset Blvd. (323-468-3800), is Hollywood's home for lovers of the basic British pub. Sipping draughts of Boddington's, Bass or Guinness by the courtyard fountain is a great way to while away a warm spring evening. Or consider heading to Santa Monica for some refreshing ocean air -- and a trip to Ye Olde Kings Head Pub &Restaurant, 116 Santa Monica Blvd. (310-451-1402). This Anglophile's dream is filled with Brits, and whenever the English band Oasis is in town, they like to knock back an ale or two here.
There's no place more homey than Lone Wolf at the Wine Merchant, 9713 S. Santa Monica Blvd. (310-278-0347), whose dark wood walls are decorated with portraits of personified hounds at play. Owned by partners Dennis Overstreet, Chuck Norris and Jim Belushi, this wine bar and cigar lounge is centrally located in the heart of tony Beverly Hills; their oversize (musty, but comfy) leather chairs are a great place to unwind.
What the Algonquin is to New York's literary past, Musso &Frank Grill, 6667 Hollywood Blvd. (323-467-7788), is to Hollywood's. Open since 1919, this old school restaurant/bar once served the literary heavyweights imported to Hollywood for screenwriting duties. Hemingway, Faulkner, Fitzgerald and Nathaniel West all spent many a booze-addled night at the grill's long mahogany bar. Decidedly not hip, this bar still gets honorable marks for its contribution to local history.

THEATER &COMEDY
Downtown's most distinguished theaters, the Ahmanson Theater (213-972-7401) and Mark Taper Forum (213-972-0700; www.taperahmanson.com) are located at the Music Center, 135 N. Grand Ave. Both theaters attract noteworthy stagings of high-profile productions. During the BEA convention, look for innovative director/choreographer Matthew Bourne's follow-up to Swan Lake, his adaptation of Cinderella. Using Prokofiev's 1945 score, Bourne situates the classic story in bomb-besieged wartime London.
From April 18 to June 13, the Mark Taper Forum presents Anna Deavere Smith's House Arrest, which pulls together an ensemble cast to explore the power of the presidency. Insider tip: two hours prior to curtain time, the Mark Taper Forum offers specially priced $12 tickets for that evening's performance; they must be purchased in person and with cash only at the theater's boxoffice.
The Music Center is also home to the elegant Dorothy Chandler Pavilion, concert hall for the Los Angeles Philharmonic (213-850-2000; www.laphil.org). May 1-2, Finnish-born director Esa-Pekka Solonen will be conducting a program of Mussorgsky, Britten and Shostakovich.
With legions of actors anxious to make it big, Los Angeles is bursting at the seams with small theater and comedy troupes. The Actor's Gang, 6201 Santa Monica Blvd., Hollywood (323-465-0566), a group of UCLA alums, never shies from irreverence in its productions, which have nabbed a few local awards. On a more serious note, the classical theater company A Noise Within, 234 Brand Ave., Glendale (818-546-1924; http:// theatre.glendale.ca.us/noise) has staged everything from Shakespeare to Coward to Moliere, performing in a Masonic temple-turned-theater. On May 2, dipus King is on the playbill. The West Coast Ensemble Theater, 522 N. La Brea Ave. (323-525-0022), a nonprofit multiethnic assemblage of professional actors, writers and directors, has garnered accolades and awards for its high-quality productions since 1981. Expect to see well-written and socially relevant plays performed by a talented and professional cast.
To get up-to-date information on what's scheduled at local theaters during BEA, check with Theatre LA (213-614-0556; www.theatrela.org). This association of live theaters and producers also operates a half-price ticket booth, Times Tix (310-659-3678), in the Beverly Center, 8500 Beverly Blvd.
In search of comic relief? Look no further than Groundling Theater, 7307 Melrose Ave. (323-934-9700; www.groundlings.com), which has been around for more than 20 years and remains the funniest group in town. The Groundlings were the springboard to fame for Pee-Wee Herman, Elvira and Lisa Kudrow, and they'll have you laughing 'til it hurts. For straight-ahead stand-up comedy in West Hollywood, check out either Improv, 8162 Melrose Ave. (323-661-2583), or Mitzi Shore's famed Comedy Store, 8433 Sunset Blvd. (323-656-6225). There are performances seven nights a week at both venues, and the comics are often first-rate.

LIVE MUSIC
No matter what your musical tastes may be, Los Angeles has something for everybody. There are ample opportunities to make an evening of dinner and a show all in one venue. B.B. King's Blues Club, CityWalk, Universal City (818-622-5464), just 20 minutes from downtown, continually books blues acts that would make its venerable namesake proud. Though CityWalk's brightly lit commercial plaza can be a bit much, the BBQ ribs and first-rate music are well worth the trip. House of Blues, 8430 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood (323-848-5100; www.hob.com), about 30 minutes from downtown, has brought a little bit of Disney to the famed Sunset Strip-with its ramshackle bayou facade, H.O.B. looks straight out of the "Country Bear Jamboree." Inside, though, it's another story; week after week this venue hosts top-notch national and international acts. Be sure to make reservations if you intend to eat in the upstairs restaurant, which has great Southern-tinged comfort food.
For something more grassroots, Largo, 432 N. Fairfax Ave. (323-852-1073), always offers an eclectic array of performances in its intimate dining room. Since 1997, pop-music archeologist Jon Brion has had a regular Friday night spot. West Hollywood's LunaPark, 665 N. Robertson Blvd. (310-652-0611), is wildly unpredictable but reliably good. The food is better than it has to be and the performances are diverse -- from upstart young musicians (Ani DiFranco played her first L.A. gig here) to visiting international DJs, as well as cabarets and comedy shows.
To experience the faded grandeur of Hollywood's bygone golden era, try Catalina Bar &Grill, 1640 N. Cahuenga Blvd. (323-466-2210). Though the neighborhood has become rough around the edges, this premier supper club manages to book some of the biggest names in contemporary jazz. With something going on every night of the week, The Cinegrill in the Hollywood Roosevelt Hotel, 7000 Hollywood Blvd. (323-466-7000), hosts some of the country's best cabaret singers and guest chanteuses from Eartha Kitt to Cybill Shepherd. It's located in one L.A.'s most historic hotels, which supposed to be haunted by Marilyn Monr and Montgomery Clift.
From Los Feliz to Santa Monica and West Hollywood to Culver City, you'll find any and every type of music possible, trendsetting to old favorites. There are countless nightclubs to satisfy any musical whim, and the LA Weekly (www.laweekly.com) is the best guide to all of them. This free weekly paper provides the most complete up-to-date information on L.A.'s bar, music and theater offerings.
Though the heady days of the L.A. rock 'n' roll scene appear to be, at least for the time being, on hiatus, there are still plenty of great places to grab a cocktail and see a band. In the past Hollywood's Dragonfly, 6510 Santa Monica Blvd. (323-466-6111), has shown a penchant for booking top "surprise" shows by such local acts as Rage Against the Machine and Porno for Pyros. The Opium Den, 1605 Ivar St. (323-466-7800), schedules live alternative music seven nights a week on a cramped but intimate stage. Not only can you watch talented local bands and rising national acts, it's also a great place to spot Hollywood's young hip celebrities. Johnny Depp's Viper Room, 8852 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood (310-358-1880), another celeb-heavy scene, hosts some of the most varied and exciting live music bookings in town, including past unannounced late-night appearances from musical legends as diverse as Johnny Cash, Iggy Pop and Nancy Sinatra.
Also in West Hollywood, the 42-year old Doug Weston's Troubadour, 9081 Santa Monica Blvd. (310-276-1158), is a mainstay in the modern history of rock music. The Byrds and the Eagles are among the bands that were virtually formed here; even today, the Troub plays host to plenty of national and international acts climbing up stardom's ladder. The Mint, 6010 W. Pico Blvd. (323-954-9630), is gloriously loungy, attracting a mixed clientele -- ranging from youthful scenesters to middle-aged mothers -- with its blues, rock and jazz performances.
If it's music and music only that you're after, there are a couple of notable bedrocks in the L.A. scene. For the past 21 years, the guitar shop McCabe's, 3101 Pico Blvd., Santa Monica (310-828-4497), has opened its backroom by night for some memorable acoustic sets. The likes of Doc and Merle Watson, Dave Van Ronk, Linda Ronstadt, Wendy and Lisa and Peter Case are but a few of the names who've dazzled audiences. McCabe's is intimate in the extreme; the only way to get any cozier would be to invite the artist to perform in your hotel room. For no-frills jazz, try Ruth Price's Jazz Bakery, 3233 Helms Ave. (310-271-9039). Located in Culver City, about 15 minutes from downtown in a resuscitated building from the '30s (the historic Helms Bakery), Jazz Bakery is renowned for attracting jazz names such as Mose Allison, along with L.A.'s most discerning jazz aficionados.

DANCING
Before the Gap gave us its commercial of khaki-bedecked swing kids shakin' it for the camera, Los Angeles was at the heart of a tempest that soon jitterbugged and lindy-hopped its way across the country. Standing at the entrance to Griffith Park on the northeastern edge of the city, The Derby, 4500 Los Feliz Blvd. (323-663-8979), was ground zero of the swing revival. With Big Bad Voodoo Daddy as the onetime house band, hep guys and dolls knew the Derby was "money" even before swingers transformed it into one of the city's most happenin' hangouts. Unfortunately, its rise in popularity has brought the inevitable lines to get in and the even more disappointing competition for space on the dance floor. So, if you're looking forward to a lot of dancing, head to Merv Griffith's newly opened Coconut Club, 9876 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills (310-285-1358). About 35 minutes from downtown, this dine-and-dance venue offers some of the city's very best in Latin and swing dance on Fridays and Saturdays-it's a wonderful place to reenact the romantic splendor of Hollywood past. Beware, though, of the steep $20 cover.
For a spicier night out, try the Conga Room, 5364 Wilshire Blvd. (323-549-9765; www.congaroom.com), only 15 minutes from downtown in the mid-Wilshire district. Attracting such Latin-music luminaries as Tito Puente and Pucho &the Latin Soul Brothers, the Conga Room has fast become the new nightspot to sway to the sounds of live salsa. Break up the evening of heart-melting, sexy Latin dancing with a trip into the dining room, where the chef serves up savory Cuban fare. Located in a modest Hollywood strip mall north of the Conga Room is El Floridita, 1253 N. Vine St., Hollywood (323-871-8612). This tiny Cuban restaurant/salsa club, which attracts the occasional celebrity, is hot, hot, hot. The spectacular music and phenomenal dancing are well worth the $10 cover charge.
If you're looking for something more underground, head to Santa Monica's The Pink, 2810 Main St. (310-392-1077), where the DJs dish out musical fare ranging from drum 'n' bass to progressive house. Love Lounge, 657 N. Robertson Blvd., West Hollywood (310-659-0472), presents its Friday-night club Cherry, where dazzled dancers whirl around the massive floor to a wicked mix of throwback Glam from the '70s and hot dance music from the '80s. Around the corner is the high-energy, high-attitude disco Rage, 8911 Santa Monica Blvd.(310-652-7055), which, for 15 years, has been a favorite of WeHo's gay dance-club circuit.

THE SILVER SCREEN
Multiplexes, featuring polished studio flicks with big-name casts, abound in Los Angeles. But it's the small, specialty theaters that host films from the independent, artier side of moviemaking. Check the LA Weekly to see what's on screen at any of the following theaters during your visit:
The newly and beautifully refurbished 1921 Egyptian Theater, 6712 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, is a welcome sight. It's home to American Cinematheque (323-466-3456; www.americancinematheque.com), which has long promoted moving picture as this country's great art form, presenting hard-to-find videos and films ranging from the wildly arty to the old classics. The Bing Theater at the L.A. County Museum of Art, 5905 Wilshire Blvd. (323-857-6000; www.lacma.org), offers a specially themed film series each month. Despite being a contemporary multiplex located in a bright outdoor mall, Laemmle's Sunset 5, 8000 Sunset Blvd., West Hollywood (323-848-3500), features the films that most theaters of its ilk won't even touch. This is the place to come to see interesting independent art films as well as gay-themed movies. Digging deep into the vaults, look to Nuart Theater, 11272 Santa Monica Blvd. (310-478-6379), for its always changing looks at some real campy classics.