Tea Breads & Coffee

This slender volume by the food editor of Woman's Day offers a welcome antidote to the recent spate of baking books glorifying decadent desserts. Defining tea breads and coffeecakes as ``homey baked goods that need no frosting or buttercream filling,'' Alston turns out easily prepared, not-too-sweet fare that can grace a breakfast table as well as an afternoon party. Most recipes are low in sugar and fat (with many accompanied by virtually fat-free variations) and tend to feature fruits, nuts and whole grains, but several recipes calling for chocolate may appease a pronounced sweet tooth. The author's directions are abundantly clear, and where she includes techniques for the food processor Alston supplies alternate instructions for hand or blender preparation. A section on baking fundamentals will embolden beginners, but accomplished bakers won't want to miss clever tips for pitting cherries with a paper clip and incorporating olive oil in favorite cakes. Illustrations not seen by PW. (Feb.)