Lulu's Provencal Table: The Exuberant Food and Wine from Domaine Tempier Vineyard

Lulu and Lucien Peyraud, who own the noted Domaine Tempier vineyard in Provence, not far from Marseilles, are well known among the culinary-minded--he for the quality of his wine and she for the forceful, classically regional food served at the vineyard. Olney, a prize-winning cookbook writer ( The French Menu Cookbook ; Provence the Beautiful ) and longtime friend of theirs, here offers a graceful history of the unpretentious Peyraud dynasty, beginning with their acquisition of the domaine in 1940. After Olney, and Alice Waters, tantalize readers with descriptions of meals at the domaine, Lulu's recipes begin, starting with aperitifs and amuse-gueles and finishing up with fruit desserts. Hers is classic French country cooking, featuring everyday ingredients (often including anchovies and wild fennel), cooked with respect for their nature and flavor. Meats range from a simple beef tenderloin through tripe and tongue to an array of lamb and rabbit dishes; much of the fish is grilled; the vegetable recipes don't range too far beyond squashes, peppers and tomatoes. Throughout the 150 recipes, Olney demonstrates an abundant low-key charm as he engages in the game of ``Trying to Pin Lulu Down,'' recording her often changing responses to his questions about amounts of ingredients and timing. Olney's comments on wines served with meals and courses, included throughout and in the section at the end, are an education in themselves. With good-humored admiration, sharp-eyed description and lucid instruction, Olney--and Lulu--bring readers traditional Provencal cooking at its finest. Photos not seen by PW . $50,000 ad/promo; author tour; first serial to Grand Street; Homestyle Book Club alternate. (May)