For the longest time gritty Marseille suffered an image problem, but all that changed a few years ago when a whole raft of artists and intellectuals quit Paris and made the southern city their home. Having received reports that a cultural revolution was afoot, Young, a New York restaurant critic and food commentator on NPR's Weekend Edition, installed himself in Marseille to track the changes. The resulting work is a portrait of a city by way of its food. Interviewing spice merchants, fish mongers, home cooks and local chefs, Young follows the scent of the food of Marseille in all its permutations. While rooted in the Provençal tradition, the food of Marseille is spiced with the flavors of Tunisia, Senegal, Vietnam, Italy and Morocco, absorbing the influence of all the different peoples who have settled within its precincts. While the recipe selection includes many classic Provençal dishes, from anchoiade to bouillabaisse, more noteworthy are the riffs on tradition. Readers might not actually make the elaborate Napoleon of Sea Bass with Tapenade with Tomato Confit and Peas, but they will enjoy reading about it. There are also a number of wonderfully simple recipes, such as the idea of freezing extra-virgin olive oil and serving it partially thawed as a spread. Equally interesting is a section on fusion dishes, the best of which meld the tastes of France and North Africa. Enhanced by Boffredo's moody black-and-white photographs, Young's book will appeal to cooks and Francophiles alike. (Sept.)
