Greens Glorious Greens
Johnna Albi. St. Martin's Griffin, $21.95 (288pp) ISBN 978-0-312-14108-0
We know that there is life beyond broccoli and iceberg lettuce, but what is one to do with the odd-looking green things with exotic names that increasingly line the produce shelves? Albi (who recently died) and Walthers (formerly food editor for Natural Health) take a careful look at greens from arugula and dandelion to kale and mesclun and other salad greens. The authors explain their subjects' virtues and shortcomings (steamed broccoli rabe served solo can be unpleasant); how to choose them; how--and how long--to keep them; how to clean them; and, in more than 140 recipes, how to cook them. Greens need a little help, they say, and many of the recipes lean on a smattering of olive oil, garlic or raisins to bring out the flavor: Kale with Raisins and Toasted Pine Nuts; Chinese Bok Choy, Shitake and Tofu; Garlic Escarole Soup with Rice. Carrots or red peppers can add color as well as flavor--a Broccoli Rabe Vegetable Pasta with yellow summer squash and freshly grated Parmesan or Romano is an exceptionally pretty and tasty dish. Interspersed are informational chapters on nutrition (most greens are high in vitamins, minerals and beta-carotene), the best cooking methods, and home gardening tips. (Apr.)
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Reviewed on: 03/18/1996
Genre: Nonfiction