Down Home Southern Cooking

Burns, a restaurateur and originator of a line of condiments, draws upon his Southeastern black culinary heritage to offer recipes that are more utilitarian than spectacular. Great-grandmother Lucinda's chicken casserole is a simple, clove-flavored dish using leftover chicken. Broiled or baked ham and apple are basic, uninventive renditions. Curry powder and vegetables or canned pineapple and brown sugar are added to rice to provide variations on that plain side dish. A few items, such as chilied chicken and oven-barbecued short ribs, have a touch of hotness, though most dishes are mildly seasoned. Cooks who want to experiment with traditional Southern fare will enjoy sweet-potato pone or chicken-oyster gumbo. Instructions are facile and direct. Most dishes feature familiar, readily available ingredients, with the exception of the few game or regional items, such as pigeon pie, opossum and diamondback terrapin stew. Illustrations not seen by PW. (April 17)