Yves Saint Laurent

Rawsthorn brings to her subject a combination of experience as a financial journalist (Financial Times) and as a member of the British Design Council. Her hero, Yves Saint Laurent, joined the venerable house of Christian Dior in 1955 as a junior assistant. His subsequent career has mirrored profound changes in both fashion and society. Rawsthorn chronicles the inexorable shift away from the exquisitely handcrafted clothes of haute couture, shown only to the rich and famous in Paris shows, somewhat like royal audiences. YSL was among the first to realize the opportunities of mass production, pret a porter. He opened his chain of Rive Gauche stores to sell his fashion vision to the woman in the street. Accompanying the detailed portrait of an industry in turmoil is the tale of a frail genius, his ferocious and savvy lover, Pierre Berge, architect of much of the YSL licensing empire and the company's several changes of ownership. There's a supporting case of international jet-setters many of whom--like Andy Warhol, Catherine Deneuve and Rudolf Nureyev--stayed loyal to YSL throughout his anguished retreats to Morocco and the world of drugs and alcohol. This is a powerful story, told with a winning combination of passion and objectivity. Rawsthorn writes with strong narrative flair and instinct for the vivid detail. Photos not seen by PW. (Dec.)