Celebrating the Midwest Table

Great taste, rather than nostalgia, seems to have motivated columnist and cooking teacher Mandel (More Taste Than Time) to assemble this refreshing contribution to the ongoing celebration of heartland cuisine. Departing from the region's expected stick-to-the-ribs fare, Mandel's recipes serve the Midwest tradition with an updated flair, paying homage to the region's bounty of fresh produce and healthful grains. While some dishes are satisfying in simple ways, like Braised Veal Chops with Vegetables, more bow to sophisticated, less predictable dishes, e.g., the Cabbage Layer Cake Casserole (including prunes and ground meat among its ingredients) served with Sweet Tomato Marmalade or Cornmeal Chive Pancakes with Great Lakes Golden Caviar. Many of the desserts are built on fresh fruit (Strawberry Rhubarb Crisp), but fans of heartier sweets will be satisfied with the likes of Lazy Daisy Vanity Cake and the rich, contemporary Chocolate Cappuccino Pound Cake. Figuring large here is Mandel's talent as a teacher: her text is informed with clarity and delivers plenty of make-ahead suggestions and practical tips. (Mar.)