Portico: Cooking and Feasting in Rome’s Jewish Kitchen

Stepping through the eternal city’s Portico d’Ottavia into the area once known as Rome’s Jewish Ghetto, Koenig (The Jewish Cookbook) presents a vibrant culinary tour. The accessible recipes reflect a history of Jewish immigration from the second century BCE to the 20th century that produced “a beguiling cuisine” from a “deeply knit community” that is “uniquely Roman.” Chapters on vegetables, soups, fritters, pasta and rice, main dishes, and sweets prepared alla giudia (in the Jewish style) showcase the diverse influences on Giudiaco Romanesco cuisine while also reflecting modern sensibilities. Koenig celebrates the “Roman Jewish love affair” with the artichoke in recipes for simple fried artichokes, the “heart and soul of Roman Jewish cuisine,” and artichoke carpaccio. Numerous dishes, including savory potato pastries and sweet honey-soaked matzoh fritters, reflect an affinity for fried foods originating with street vendors. Pasta and chickpea stew is a garlicky, rosemary-laced bowl of comfort, while glazed lemon almond cake makes a sweet finish. Beef dishes include a kosher-friendly twist on pasta amatriciana that uses dried salt beef in place of traditional cured pork, and a helpful list of Jewish pantry basics and menus for Shabbat round things out. Koenig’s inviting introduction to Roman Jewish fare is sure to inspire home cooks of any faith.(Aug.)